ACHI-KOCHI

by Rey Ian Corpuz

May-June 2009

West Japan in 7-Days

Have you heard of the "Seishun 18 Kippu." Probably most of you heard of it already. Last spring break, me and Ernest, a fellow ALT, were able to travel west Japan using this ticket. Our itinerary included Miyajima, Hiroshima, Himeji, Osaka, Kyoto and Nara covering Chugoku and Kinki Regions.

What is the Seishun 18 Kippu?

Seishun 18 kippu literally means Youth 18 Tickets. Though the term "youth" is used, this ticket can be used by anyone. Youth 18 tickets are seasonal unlimited rides to all JR lines all over Japan every spring, summer and winter seasons. With this ticket, you can ride and get off in all JR stations without having to pay again. Sad to say this can't be used in Shinkansen lines. The Youth 18 tickets are ideal for budget conscious people who have plenty of time to travel and those who like adventure in train travel. For those who still do not know how to travel in Japan using the train, this is a good crash course for you. The ticket costs 11,500 yen and can be used for five (5) non-consecutive days within the allowed travel period. Or this ticket can be used by five (5) people at once within a day of travel. Tickets can be bought at any JR Midoriguchi counters all over Japan. Also, this ticket is easily sold-out from the selling date so be sure to buy this ticket as soon as it is available.

Moonlight Nagara

If you plan to travel in West Japan, just like in our case, riding the Moonlight Nagara is the best train to travel to save time and energy. Moonlight Nagara is a midnight train that traverses the Tokaido Line from Tokyo to Ogaki in Gifu Prefecture and vice versa. Seats are reserved for 510 yen. From Tokyo, the train departed at 11:10PM and arrived in Ogaki at around 6AM. The train is equipped with reclining seats and toilets for your travel convenience. This train is also a good way to conserve your energy for a long travel. In our case, since Hiroshima is half-way across Japan, we needed this to have enough energy to reach Hiroshima. If you plan to travel in Tohoku Region (Aomori and Fukushima areas), take the Moonlight Echigo.

How to Use the Seishun 18 Kippu Efficiently?

Once you ride a JR Line, you have to have the ticket date stamped at the station master gate. Tickets cannot be inserted in ticket inspection gates. The usage of the Youth 18 Ticket is on a daily basis and not on a 24-hour basis. If you use the ticket for a long journey or let us say you will ride the Moonlight Nagara in Tokyo you have to purchase a separate ticket until Odawara in Kanagawa Prefecture since the train arrives in Odawara at past 12AM. From then, your ticket will be stamped on its first day of usage. Seishun 18 tickets are good for long distance travels since you can maximize its use at a fixed 2,300 yen per day rate. Think of this, we traveled from Tokyo to Hiroshima in a day for just 2,300 yen. It's a real value for your money.

Hiroshima and Miyajima

(Days 1 and 2)

Hiroshima

We arrived in Hiroshima at around 3:30 PM the following day after numerous change trains. Along the way we have seen endless mountains in West Japan. Hiroshima's transportation system uses trams and buses within the city. For 840 yen a day, you can have unlimited tram and ferry (bound for Miyajima) in the city. Hiroshima is a very orderly city and easy to navigate plus the fact that people are very warm, especially the locals. There are several rivers that flow in Hiroshima. When we arrived there, it was low tide and visited some of the city landmarks while taking pictures. The following day, we headed for Itsukushima Shrine in Miyajima Island. Miyajima Island can be accessed from Hiroden Miyajimaguchi Station via ferry that crosses from the main island to this picturesque shrine. The Itsukushima Shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage site. While approaching the island, you could spot this huge torii or Shinto shrine archway colored orange just several meters off the main island, which was the highlight of our travel. Upon arriving at Miyajima port, we were surprised to see a lot of deer freely roaming the area. All of the deer were tame and sloth. It was nice observing these deer at an unguarded close range. The shrine houses several temples. Orange colored temples sprout the area. For the Japanese this shrine has a very significant value in their culture that is why they preserved and value it a lot. After taking endless pose with the torii, temples and deer, we tasted two of the island's best products. The momiji manju or the maple shaped sweet bun and their delicious oysters. We ate oysters in udon and it was one of the tastiest oysters I have eaten. The texture was crisp to the bite and it tasted really good. After lunch we went back to Hiroshima.

Atomic Bomb Dome

Our first stop was the Atomic Bomb Dome. It felt eerie upon seeing the dome for the first time. Beside the ruins of the dome was a huge stone with kanji etched character à‘óÏ which read as IREI and means "comforting the spirit of the dead." I can't imagine how many innocent lives were lost in this incident. Well, on the other hand, maybe even for some of us, might feel much vindicated after seeing the ruins as the symbol ending the Japanese occupation of the Philippines during the World War II. There were a lot of tourists who visited the area. I bet some of the old folks who were there were war veterans. The Genbaku dome was the former Hiroshima Prefecture Industrial Promotion Hall. The A-Bomb Dome is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Hiroshima Castle

The Hiroshima Castle was the 2nd castle I visited in Japan after the castle in Gyoda City. The castle area is filled with surviving plants and trees which witnessed the bombing of Hiroshima. We saw a eucalyptus tree and a willow tree carefully preserved to remember the A-bombing. Upon entering the castle, I watched a video presentation of how the castle was built and its history unveiled. It was fascinating how the castle was built and stood strong against the A-Bomb. Reaching the summit of the castle, a magnificent view of Hiroshima City and the Sanyo Mountains captivates your eyes. It was a breathtaking view as the park below is filled with already bloomed sakura trees.

Himeji Castle (Day 3)

We left for Himeji during the first trip of the train at 5:56 AM. It terribly felt tiring as I only slept for 2 hours that night. Upon seating, we munched the onigiri and bread we bought from the convenience store. The trip lasted 4 hours with occasional stops along the way until changing trains in Aioi station (ëäê∂) and finally reaching Himeji City.

Himeji Castle is another UNESCO World Heritage Site where the castle was originally built around 1346. The castle is just several hundreds of meters away from JR Himeji Station. Since it was hanami season, people on picnics fill up the Himeji Castle grounds. The entire castle grounds were filled with so many sakura and the facade of the castle from the entrance gate was a site of people lining up for photos where the castle is the background. I could not remember how many floors we had to climb to reach the top because the angle of the stairs was too steep. The castle was featured in the film, The Last Samurai by Tom Cruise and other several samurai-related films like Ran. No wonder this is the most visited castle in Japan. Despite going there on a weekday, it was still jam-packed with visitors. While inside, we have to do occasional stops since the ladders' steps were narrow and most old folks have difficulty in descending and ascending inside the castle's stairs. Upon reaching the summit, a small shrine for prayers and offering awaits you. While at the summit, we took numerous photos as fast as we can since we were just given a short time to stay due to numerous people waiting downstairs. The scene of Himeji City was as beautiful as Hiroshima without the tall and huge structures. The entire castle area was so massive and erected with so many castle-like structures and watchtowers used to protect the area during the Edo Period. After the 3-hour sightseeing tour, we ate lunch and again boarded a local train for Kyoto.              

To be continued...

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

March-April 2009

Biyaheng Kansai

Napadpad po ang inyong lingkod noong nakaraang Disyembre sa kanlurang bahagi ng bansang Hapon. Ito po ay dahil sa kagustuhang makatipid ng pamasahe at dahil sa sabik na sabik na umuwi, sinubukan ko ang sumakay sa Cebu Pacific sa Kansai. Mula Saitama to Tokyo, Tokyo to Osaka, Osaka to Kansai International Airport (KIX), KIX to Manila and finally to my hometown Davao City (vice versa). Kung hindi po dahil sa Cebu Pacific eh malamang pangatlong taon ko na ito na hindi nakauwi sa aking pamilya sa Davao City. Alam po natin na dito sa Japan, pag may okasyon kagaya ng obon, summer vacation, pasko, at Golden Week, ang ticket po ng eroplano ay napakamahal. Noong nakaraang pasko, ang karaniwang ticket ay naglalaro sa 100,000 hanggang 140,000 depende po sa haba ng balik. Total po ng biyahe ko ay umabot lamang po ng 72,000 yen, kasama na po yung Manila-Davao-Manila ko na pamasahe. Kasama na po dito ang aking round-trip na pamasahe ng tren mula Saitama to Tokyo, overnight bus mula Shinjuku to Osaka at ang Airport Limousine Bus mula Osaka to Kansai International Airport. Nakakakaba po ang bumiyahe sa isang lugar na hindi ka pa nakakapunta lalo na at ang dami kong tinahak na sakay. Sakay sa tren at bus, lakad dito, akyat doon habang karag-karag ko pa ang aking mabigat na maleta laman ang mga pasalubong. Ang biyaheng iyon ay hindi para sa mga mahina ang loob at ayaw ng adventure dahil napaka mendokusai.

Along the way, nung pasakay ako ng bus sa Shinjuku at 11PM that night, may na meet akong Pilipino. Isang Nikkeijin na taga Kouenji, Tokyo. Nawala po ang aking kaba nung alam kong may Pilipino akong kasama. Iba po talaga ang mga Pilipino. Unang pagkakakilala pa lamang ay feeling close na masyado at talaga naman pong nagtutulungan lalo na sa oras ng kagipitan. It saved my day. At least may kausap ako habang naghihintay sa bus at sa kalagitnaan ng biyahe. Maganda ang bus na sinakyan namin. Double-decker. May CR sa loob and I was able to stretch my legs. Along the way, may nakilala po kaming French na taga Saitama. I thought na ako lang ang taga Saitama na bumiyahe patungong Osaka. Isa po sa mga katangian nating Pilipino na maipagmamalaki natin ay yung pagiging bihasa natin sa wikang Ingles. Sa lahat ng pasahero ng bus, tatlo lang kaming gaijin at magkakatabi pa talaga kami. Ayun, kwentuhan ng ilang mga minuto sa biyahe bago natulog. Of course, in English! There were about 5 or 6 stops along the way. Nakarating po kami sa Kyoto around 6AM and what I saw was almost all small, old, yet beautiful buildings and structures.

When we got off in Osaka at 8AM, we were totally clueless where to go. There was plenty of time. We arrived 8AM and our Cebu Pacific flight was at 8PM that night. So we decided to consume our McDonalds Coffee coupon that was given to us and ate our breakfast. Afterwhich, the French guy left and began his vacation in Osaka. Me and Kuya Peter were roaming around where to find the nearest station for the Airport Limousine Bus. Napakadali pong bumili ng ticket dahil automatic. One-way is around 1,300 yen. Umabot po ng isang oras ang biyahe. According to some of my friends, its easier to travel via bus rather than a train when going to Kansai International Airport dahil marami pong norikae papunta sa airport. Ang view po ay napakaganda. Crossing from mainland Honshu going to the reclaimed land was like a scene from a movie. The area was very wide and beautiful. From the expressway above, you can see the entire Osaka and the approaching airport in its beauty. Upon arriving, we ate lunch again and had plenty of coffee at Starbucks. For coffee lovers, the coffee is refillable at 120 yen per cup. Just don't throw you cup or else you won't get refilled. Internet service around the airport is also free and really fast. The airport complex is easy to navigate and there are plenty of shops. There is even a Lawson convenience store inside. Habang naghihintay, ang dami kong Pilipino na nakita. Karamihan taga Kansai area siyempre. Ako lang po ata ang pinakamalayong pinanggalingan. The plane left almost an hour late because it was a little delayed from Manila. (Ahem). When I came back it was the opposite, from Osaka, I was the only gaijin riding the bus. Scary but I was able to survive and finally arrived Shinjuku at 7AM and finally arriving at my home by 830AM. Taihen deshou? To sum it up, my travel was more than the usual travel experience. I have seen and set foot on the major city in the West which is Osaka, and the world's most advanced floating airport, Kansai International Airport. Furthermore, acquainted with one random Filipino and a random French guy. And of course, saved a lot of money!

January-February 2009

My First Snow, Ski and Onsen in Japan

Akemashite omedetou gozaimasu! I can still remember more than a year ago, after setting foot on Japan, that one thing I ever wanted was to see and experience real snow. By the time you read this article, the snow may have already fallen once or twice in Kanto area. According to some of my Japanese colleagues who are Tokyo natives, snow falls three to four times every winter season in Kanto area. Last year, the chance of experiencing a snow was a long wait. It seemed that the more that you look forward to it, the longer it takes.

Finally one morning, I woke up snow falling in the terrace from the 3rd floor of my unit. I was filled with so much excitement. Snow fell yet an ignorant Filipino for the first time went out only wearing a piece of thin jacket without any gloves and wanted to touch and grasp it. My neighbor in the adjacent building looked strangely at me. I didn't mind at all. What I want was to relish the moment that it was my first time to see real snow. The snow fell from 6:30 until 10:00 in the morning. By 7am, I have decided to skip work just for this experience. After all, I wasn't feeling that good. I had a terrible sore throat and slight cough. I then called the office by 8:45 am that I won't be able to make it that day because I was sick. During the onset of snowfall, I went out to really experience the snow. I wore double layer of jackets to insulate me from the strong and cold wind that swept during the day. Of course, I took some pictures and videos for my Friendster and blog. By 10 am, snowfall stopped, and then the cold wind started to breeze. Snow was slowly melting and the air proved to be colder than the snow itself.

My experience was not enough. During February last year, along with my Filipino friends, we went on a skiing trip in Nagano. Again, trying to ski for the first time was a memorable one. It was my first time to try the ski. It really felt scared because I don't know how to balance. My excitement gradually faded since it felt already tiresome and scary to have injuries or even to hurt someone as I could not control my direction. It was also my first time to ride a ski cable car. The view was magnificent. I was able to have a bird's eye-view of Japan Alps covered in lush snow. After experiencing it, it really felt tiring. Having snow around makes you feel sloth and very sleepy.

That winter experience was also my first dip in the onsen. It really felt awkward and uneasy. First and foremost, we Filipinos are not accustomed with communal baths and the idea of dipping in a common pool naked and all the dirt coming from other people felt very unhygienic. The heck! I just tried and dipped. The facility for men and women are separated, of course. The bathing area is composed of four different pools. Each with semi warm and very warm water, and a lukewarm water pool filled with natural herbs and aroma suited to rejuvenate health. And another pool was a little electrically charged. Unknowingly, I dipped in the electrically charged pool and I felt so funny having to react differently from the old Japanese men within the area. The facility also has a very hot sauna room. I couldn't bear for more than five minutes inside and I just went out for another dip because the heat was unbearable. After the bath, the following day, I had scratches of allergies which I maybe had contracted on the pool. But I guess it was worth a try experiencing an authentic Japanese way.

Aside from these experiences, the winter season proved to be hard to wake up during the morning and constant dryness of skin and cracking of lips. This added a few more minutes to my daily morning ritual which made it more time-consuming. Furthermore, when snow falls, train delays are everywhere. So prepare for alternate routes and listen to the forecast ahead of time for you to prepare earlier. Best things to do during winter season are to indulge steaming shabu-shabu, nabe, oden or anything with soup, or several bottles of either beer or sake to keep you warm and of course sleep deeply.

September-October 2008

Pagmumuni-muni sa Ika-Isang Taon

(Sorry but the server host cannot display Japanese characters. Sorry for the inconvenience.)

This month marks my first year of stay here in Japan. I can't believe that I survived here in Japan being almost alone all the time. If not because of some Filipino friends and other few good Japanese colleagues, I would have gone home after my 3rd month.

Isang bagay na napapansin mo na may mga Pilipino sa paligid is kung may mga masayang nagkukumpulang nag-uusap. Nasa loob ako ng tren noon at narinig na may nag-ta-Tagalog sa mag bandang dulo ng coach. Nung bumaba ako, bumaba din sila. Nung mga araw na yun, I almost felt that I am the only Filipino who lived in that place. Kaya ang sabi ko eh dapat kapalan ko na ang mukha ko na magpakilala dahil gusto kong maghanap ng Pilipinong kausap. Iyon ang ika tatlong buwan ko sa Japan at hindi pa ako nakahanap ng mga Pilipinong malapit sa lugar ko. Not until that moment. I approached them and asked if they are Filipinos, which is really obvious. Apat sila. Dalawang babae and dalawang lalake. Then finally they acknowledge and we instantly became friends. To my surprise the other guy was actually the person na kasabay ko bumili ng plane ticket sa Discovery Tours sa Makati. What a small world kung baga! After that I was introduced to a lot of Filipinos in the area. Di ko akalaing ang dami palang Pilipino sa lugar ko.

Mahirap ang Nihongo. Isang beses ako ay nagkamali ng pagkaintindi. May nakita akong isang poster ng exhibit na nakapaskil sa loob ng tren. It says �‘—§”Ž•¨ŠÙ. Akala ko yung event eh sa Kunitachi (�‘—§) gagawin kung saan ako nakatira. Yun pala ang ibig sabihin ng �‘—§”Ž•¨ŠÙ eh Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan which means National (kokuritsu) Museum (hakubutsukan). Buti na lang at sinabihan ako ng boss ko na mali ang pagkabasa ko ng kanji. Masyadong komplikado ang customs ng mga Japanese sa loob ng isang typical na company. Unang una kong nalaman is never to be late. Pangalawa, bawal naka dekwatro ang mga paa pag nakaupo. Sabi ng boss kong Japanese eh ang shacho lang daw ang gumagawa nun. Mahilig ang mga Japanese boss ng last minute work. If the clock strikes at 5:30 to 6PM, diyan pa sila nagbibigay ng mga trabaho. Kaya minsan nakakansel ang mga gimik. Naranasan nyo na bang mag lead ng chourei? Ang chourei (’©—ç) ay ang umagang assembly ng buong empleyado ng company. I led the chourei for 3 months kaya napilitan akong mas maagang pumunta ng opisina para hindi ma late. Until now, I still memorize the script in Japanese on how to do the chourei. Mahilig din sa mga drinking parties or enkai ang mga Japanese. Maghanda ng extrang pera dahil iba dito sa Japan. Hindi kagaya sa atin na sinasagot ng company o di kaya salary deduction or di kaya 50/50 ang gastos pag may company night out. And do not expect too much on the food. If you spend \5,000 for that enkai, do not expect to have a food fest. Expect only few meat-based dishes and the rest would be all salads. Food in Tokyo is quite expensive. It is also only here in Japan that I have developed the taste for natto. During my 6th month, I was able to consume 3 boxes of it on top of rice and soy sauce. Una medyo nandidiri ako pero nung kalaunan, nagustuhan ko at na discover ko na ang sarap pala nito. Now I am a natto addict.

After experiencing Japanese culture, I began to have more respect and a sense of appreciation for our culture. The differences we see from their culture are also reflections on how we behave and act as Filipinos. Our language, food, customs, and different traditions should be given importance and preservation. We should be proud of them just like the Japanese. People tend to say that you will begin to value the things around you if they are already gone. It's true. When I went here, I appreciated the way how lively and dynamic the Filipino culture is. We always have a high regard for the elderly and for our family. We always have a high regard and value towards life and its existence. Even how many times we fall from our problems, we still consider it as a blessing and just a challenge. I thank God for knowing a lot of random Filipinos who already became my friends and helped me along the way. Now, it is my mission to also help Filipinos especially random ones who have difficulty in fitting to a Japanese society. As the movie says "Pay it Forward."

July-August 2008

Tokyo's Rush Hour

Hindi ko lubos maisip na pwede ka palang himatayin or di kaya ay ma aksidente pag ikaw ay sumakay ng tren dito sa Tokyo kapag rush hour. Opo, ito po ang muntik ko nang sinapit. Unang umaga ng trabaho, ako ay umalis ng bahay 7:30 AM. Sa platform ng eki ay marami nang tao ang nag-aabang. Buti na lang ang Chuo Line, isa sa mga pinaka mataong linya ng tren sa Tokyo, ay halos bawat minuto dumadating. Nung dumating na ang tren, lubhang siksikan na. Talagang masikip ngunit pilit kong idinidiin ang sarili ko. Cool lang ang mga tao sa loob. Nakikinig ng MP3 player, nagbabasa ng manga, libro, newspaper, magazine or kinakalikot ang kalinang mga cellphone. Nung pumasok ako ay gitgitan na. Nakatayo lamang ako sa buong biyahe. Ito pala ang rush hour sa Tokyo. Ang buong biyahe ko ay tahimik maliban sa mga naghihilik na mga salary man na naka suit and necktie. Mahirap gumalaw noon dahil ang mga tao ay mukhang sensitibo sa galaw. Ang halos lahat ng nakaupo at himbing sa pagtulog at feeling nasa bahay pa. Ang iba ay naka buka ang bunganga habang naghihilik, at ang iba ay kamukha ni Sadako sa The Ring, naka yuko at buhaghag ang buhok. The worst thing that will happen to you inside the train is probably kung katapat mo ay ang mga salary man na ang babaho ng mga hininga. Hindi ko lubos maisip kung nag-toothbrush sila before going to office. May mga salary man din na masyadong sensitibo sa mga galaw mo. Kung masasagi mo lang sila at pagsasabihan ka na. May isang pagkakataon ako ay sumakay na naka earphone. I was playing techno music at that time. I admit na medyo may kaingayan ito kaya grabe ang puna ng matandang salary man sa akin at maingay na daw masyado para sa kanya. Kaya ayun hininaan ko na lang.

Minsan, na delay ang train for one hour, hay naku talaga at ang daming tao na naka tayo sa platform. Everyone wants to get in. Nakasakay lang ako on the third train na pumasok. Grabe ang siksikan. Kahit pa na alam ng mga tao na para na kaming sardinas sa loob, pilit parin nilang pumasok na kung di mo malaman kung saan ka pa pupunta. I was gasping for air and everytime the train applies break, the pressure of falling people behind me are pushing against me. Muntik na akong ma suffocate but I was thinking nakakahiya ang mawalan ng malay sa tren lalo na pag rush hour. So I was quick to find a suitable place near the edge of the priority seats. Kumapit akong parang tuko sa hand-bars to find refuge over the crushing pressure of people. The bad thing about being near the exit is that when a lot of people get off in a station, mababalibag ka rin at itutulak ka ng mga tao pag nakaharang ka. I was pushed in two occasions. Buti na lang at maagap yung paa ko when I stepped out of the train because in between the train platform and the car, medyo may gap kaya pag hindi ka alisto, patay kang bata ka, at baka ikaw ay madidisgrasya. Mas masahol pa sa mga commuters ng MRT sa Edsa ang mga Japanese sa Tokyo basta rush hour. They will really fight for their turn to board once na malapit na silang ma late. Remember that if a train is delayed, you can always get a densha chien shoumeisho in the station kung saan ka mag e-exit. This is a train delay certificate which you show to your boss. With this, di ka mapapagalitan ng boss mo and hindi pa babawasan ang sweldo mo. Just make sure na tumawag ka ahead of time na mahuhuli ka at wag mong kalimutang kumuha nito sa station master na lalabasan mo.